Changing a cable on your Renegade hoof boots

Changing a cable on your Renegade hoof boots

This handy video shows step by step how to replace a cable on a Renegade® Viper® hoof boot as well as the tools needed to replace a cable.

Step-by-step to change a cable on your hoof boot 

The Classic hoof boot model is shown in the photos, but the principles of changing the cables are the same between boot models. The is a video above is of a cable being changed on a Viper model.

1. Begin by removing the Phillips head screw from the Pulley Button. If the Pulley Button rotates, grab it from both sides with pliers, but normally you can stop it from spinning with a finger.

 

2. Pop out the top piece of the pulley button with a small tool like an L-Hex Wrench or similar object.

3. Push both cables in the direction of the arrow. They won’t move far but this will provide clearance so the inner piece of the pulley button can be free. Then with your screwdriver, push the inner half of the Pulley Button inward and out of it’s hole as well. Be careful not to poke yourself with the tool.

The cable loop is now free from the Heel Captivator. If you are changing two cables, repeat for the opposite side.

4. Now insert your 1/16″ L-Hex wrench which was supplied in your accessory pack into the small hole on the face of the cable clamp and rotate it outward.

5. Insert your Hex Wrench into one of the set screws and rotate the clamp out further into the position shown below, then remove the set screws and place safely in cup.

Note: If you have difficulty removing the screws, try using WD-40 or similar thread lube. Also this Pro Wrench is precision ground from very hard drill rod steel and can remove tight screws when the L-Wrench cannot so if you do this regularly you may wish to get one. The L-Hex wrench we supply (in the accessory pack) is of the very finest quality available and made in the USA but by the very nature of how these types of wrenches are manufactured, they do not work quite as well as the Pro Wrench. The Pro Wrench is a highly recommended accessory tool. If you are having trouble with stripped set screw sockets and don’t have a Pro Wrench, you might find a “Pro Wrench” style tool at your local hobby shop, but you're unlikely to find one at a hardware store. Be sure to ask for a precision ground 1/16″ hex wrench and be sure the tip is ground from drill blank steel. All the wrenches of this type we have seen have smooth and shiny tip shanks. If the shanks are black in color and hex shaped for it’s entire length, it’s likely they are not ground from drill rod steel. Of course, you can always order a Pro Wrench from our online store along with spare cables and all other hoof boot parts.



6. Now rotate the Cable Clamp all the way back flush into it’s hole. Be careful now because the cables are no longer fastened, and any cables you do want to stay in place can easily pull out.

7. Remove the damaged cable from the cable Guide-Ways.

8. Install a new cable into the top Guide-Way hole first.

9. Now insert the cable through the lower Guide-Way hole like this.



10. The next step of inserting the cable into the Cable-Clamp Tunnel is where you might have some trouble - trust us, it can be done. This is because the end of the remaining cable is hidden in the tunnel and can block insertion of a new cable.

You will first need to push the remaining cable end further through the Cable-Clamp tunnel and out through the side where the new cable is being installed. This way, you can install the new cable past the end of the remaining cable without the ends "butting heads".

Assuming you still have one cable remaining in your boot, go to that side of the boot and push the end of the cable through to the other side until the end pokes out the side where the cable is missing as shown below. You might not need to get this much cable to come out but if you can see the end of the cable that is good enough.

It’s easy now to insert the new cable without the cable ends butting heads inside the tunnel of the Cable Clamp.

11. Now you can push the new cable on through until you can also see the end poke out on it’s opposing side as shown below.

The Arrows depict what the cables are doing inside the clamp.

12. Now you can adjust the cables to the appropriate setting by moving the cable until its marker dot (shown here in red but the color will vary) aligns at the same spot as the other cable the boot.

You can check our full guide on correct Cable Adjustment here.

13. Now rotate the cable clamp outward and reinstall the set screws. Be sure to install them carefully so you do not cross the threads. If the screw does not go in easily, back the screw out and try a slightly different angle. Run the screws down into the hole until they just start making contact with the cable. Now tighten one screw a little and then the other back and forth about four times with the final tightening quite snug.

Understand the set screws are what is locking the cables together. If you don’t get them tight enough, the cables will pull out during use. Having said this, you don't want to strip out the hex sockets of the screw using too much force with the supplied L-Hex wrench either. As a better alternative, we offer the Pro Wrench which is made from precision ground, super hard, drill blank steel and can even tighten and remove set screws with stripped out sockets.

14. Now insert the cable loop into the slot on the end of the heel captivator. Be sure the cable loop is all the way back into the slot which clears the hole.

15. Reinsert the big half of the pulley button from the inside. 

Then insert the small half of the pulley button from the outside.

16. Insert the Philips head screw and tighten firmly - now you are finished!

If you have trouble with any of these steps, please contact us via the web chat below for further assistance.