Adjusting the cables of your Renegade hoof boot

Adjusting the cables of your Renegade hoof boot

This is the step by step guide on how to adjust a cable on a Renegade® Viper® hoof boot. If you need to fully replace a cable please click here for the cable replacement video and step by step guide.

Cable Tension Check Instructions

When the boot is installed upon the hoof, and with the toe strap properly tensioned as explained in the Installing the Boot Guide, the preferred amount of strap extending past the black rubber keeper loop is from 1/2″ to 1″ like shown below.

Note: Make sure that when you initially tighten the strap, you are doing so based on creating a snug feel; and not on any goal as to where you want the end of the strap to be. In other words, don’t pull the strap extra tight or make it extra loose in order to comply with the recommended end position specifications. The strap should end up where the strap ends up based solely on the correct amount of force (not much force!) you use to tension it as described in the Installing the Boot Guide.

Problem signs to look for:

1. Strap appears too short 

If the strap extends less than 1/2″, then the strap is prone to being pulled loose when riding in deep footing or heavy brush.

2. Strap appears too long

If the strap extends past the loop more than 1″ (as shown in the photo below), the contact surface area of the gripping portion of the strap will be reduced, which  can lead to a reduction in the holding power of the strap.

3. Not enough cable clearance

The gap between the Cable Adapter (the cylindrical, shiny, aluminum part that connects the cable to the Tension Strap) and the Lateral Cable Guide Block (the protrusion on the side of the boot shell that has two holes in it) should also be between 1/2″ to 3/4″. If this gap is less than 1/2″ (approximately one finger width) then it may be difficult to be able to easily pull the Heel Captivator well up onto the heel bulbs. Worse yet, under extreme load they may interfere with each other, changing the angle of engagement, loading the cables individual strands unevenly resulting in failure of overloaded strands, followed by the rest of the strands. 

If the strap end-position OR cable clearance is out of parameter then proceed with the cable adjustment sequence below.

 

Cable Adjustment Instructions 

1. Begin by unfastening the toe tension strap. Notice the red paint dot on the cable as this will be a good reference mark for making the adjustment. 

Moving the cable toward the cable clamp (the round disk at the front of the hoof boot) will effectively shorten the cable setting and reduce the amount of strap end length and vice versa.

The Cables are designed so that if necessary, a cable adjustment outward can be performed even to the extent that the Paint Dot on the cable can only just barely be visible as it disappears into the Lateral Cable Guide Block. 

2. Using the Allen Key / L Wrench provided with your replacement straps, poke it into the “easy pry” hole on the exposed face of the Cable Clamp and pry out the cable clamp just enough to expose the top edge. This will expose the set screws like this.

 

Now you have access to the two set screws which are responsible for locking the cables into position. Do not rotate the cable clamp outward any further than needed to expose the set screws.

3. Using the supplied Allen Key / L-wrench, remove the set screws completely, place them in a cup so as not to lose them, and rotate the Cable Clamp fully back into its original position. This will ensure the Cable will slide smoothly without binding.

Note: The cables are now loose which means you must be careful to not pull them out accidentally as they can be very tricky to get back in. If you accidentally pull the cables out, review the Cable Change Page.

4. In order to shorten the effective length of each cable, you will be resetting the end of each cable by pushing the end further through the cable clamp or vice versa to lengthen the cables. 

It is best to now rotate the Cable Clamp out a full 90 degrees so that the set screws are facing directly outward. This will ensure that the cables lay side by side relative to the set screws so that the set screws apply pressure evenly between each of the two cables.

There are two methods for moving the cables. One method is to push an outward bulging loop in the cable like this.

 

Then press inward on the loop which will cause the end of the cable to move on through the cable clamp. The trick is to keep pushing the Cable Adapter and the Heel Captivator together.

An alternative method is to use needle nose pliers or hemostats for moving the cable. Be careful not to use too much pressure or force as this may damage the cable.

5. Adjust as necessary and repeat for the other side. In most cases, the cable will only need to be moved an inch or less. If you need to move the cable more, this is an indication that you may need a different size hoof boot.

6. Now, push the cable clamp back to only 45 degrees open and re-tighten the set screws by tightening one screw a little bit, then the other screw a little bit, back and forth a few times to ensure that the cables are seated evenly under the screws. Be sure to tighten the set screws well. Insufficiently torqued set screws may result in the boot base becoming detached from the Heel Captivator while riding. When tightening, you should be able to feel the resistance increase slightly as the set screws make contact with and begin to compress the cables. Continue about 1/2 to 1 more turn until you feel the set screws stop when the cables are just about fully compressed. Apply just a tad more torque to each set screw to be sure they are snug. Trying to tighten them beyond this point or using too much force risks stripping the set screw heads, breaking your Wrench, and/or damaging the cable.

 

7. Push the cable clamp back into its home position.

 

You are now finished with the cable adjustment, so put the boot back on your horse and check the new strap position.